Lower Forty Flyting Lab - December 31, 1999

WHAT SHOULD I TIE?

December 31, 1999 - Inevitably we will answer this question numerous times during the ensuing fly tying season. I’ve always found it quite difficult to deal with this query honestly without peppering in a bit of my own personal philosophy toward the sport. As with many gray beards my affection to the dry fly has manifested itself during the latter part of my affliction, and not because it is the most effective method of duping trout. Frankly, it’s not. Nymph fishermen of the highest order have the uncanny ability to succeed under a variety of conditions and given any number of scenarios.

Also, in the preceding 10-15 years, I have focused my attention away from the traditional Catskill style of fly tying and directed it more on the caddis fly. This ever present insect offers the dry fly fisherman more opportunity to hone his skills due to their generous populations here in the northeast. Despite the fact that classic mayfly hatches are always welcome, their inevitability can be somewhat mysterious and unpredictable at times, while a dependable caddis hatch, of one sort, is almost a season-long episode.

With this in mind, and tempered by personal opinion, the northeast trout-smith would be well served to consider the following patterns in assembling his arsenal of feathered creations during the ensuing winter:

Parachute Caddis (14-16) - I have a box totally dedicated to this one insect that must contain upwards of 300 specimens. Usually with darker bodies (earth tones) and wings that run the gamete from bleached ginger to black.

Elk Hair Caddis (14-16) - Very effective pattern for riffles, tail-outs and heavy water situations. Same color combinations as above. A great imitation for early and late season stone fly adults. You would do well to clip the hackle on the bottom even with the hook shank, or leave it off entirely, to allow for a more realistic, flush floating fly.

Borden Caddis Pupa (14-16) - A simple, yet deadly pattern tied on a standard 2X long nymph hook. Body- .020 lead under and olive, cream, or hare’s ear dubbing over, Hackle - soft black hen, Head - black dubbing. Like I said, simple yet very effective. A bit of clear antron can be added to the body dubbing to enhance translucency but is not necessary.

Adams Parachute (14-18) - I would risk criticism and offer this pattern as the most universally effective mayfly-style in existence, period. Our best non-specific mayfly imitation.

Red Quill Comparadun (16) - Surprised? This is an excellent generic searching pattern that mimics a number eastern mayflies. When tied in comparadun form, it becomes even more effective.

Wooly Bugger (8-10) - Arguably this pattern is responsible for capturing more trout, and under a variety of stream conditions, than any of it’s predecessors. Would recommend a black marabou tail with black hackle, accompanied by a dubbed body of chopped insect green antron with .020 lead under.

That is the "short list." I could obviously accompany it with a smattering of diptera patterns and maybe a streamer or two, but that would depend on what bailiwick I frequently haunted. Swift River regulars may depend entirely on midge, terrestrial and San Juan worm patterns, while angler’s known to frequent the upper Connecticut River may focus on giant stone flies and full dressed muddlers.

All things considered, I would be very satisfied if left to toil with the above selection of patterns throughout the sweet water season. While always experimenting with new recipes and materials, these tried and true favorites are sure to enhance your success rate.